How to Prune Crepe Myrtle Without Topping It

Crepe myrtle can flower for weeks in summer, develop attractive bark and fit many warm, sunny landscapes. Its most common problem is often not the plant—it is repeated severe topping.

Begin with the right size

Crepe myrtle varieties range from compact shrubs to trees more than 20 feet tall. If a plant must be cut back to the same height every winter, it was probably the wrong mature size for that location. Choose the form before planting and keep it clear of roofs and wires.

What to remove

Prune in late winter or early spring while the structure is visible. Start with dead, broken or diseased wood. Then remove crossing branches, inward-growing shoots and selected basal suckers. Thin crowded growth selectively instead of cutting every stem to a row of stubs.

Why topping causes trouble

Large heading cuts trigger clusters of vigorous shoots near each wound. Those shoots can be weakly attached, spoil the natural trunk and require more correction later. Heavy pruning is not necessary to create flowers; sunlight and healthy establishment matter more.

Site and aftercare

• Provide full sun for strong flowering.
• Use well-drained soil and water thoroughly after planting.
• Keep mulch away from trunks.
• Irrigate during establishment and extended drought.
• Avoid high-nitrogen overfeeding that produces excessive soft growth.

Crepe myrtle is not native to New Jersey. Use it as an ornamental accent, while native flowering trees and shrubs carry the larger habitat role.

See our Crepe Myrtle trees.

Further reading: University of Georgia Extension care guidance.